This is a post of a slightly different nature to the norm, I’m still reeling from the delicious burger I had last night and feel a strong urge to share the experience. For those who haven’t already read the hype or been to check it out, the former Meat Wagon of Peckham has made itself permanent and bang in the heart of London. I got a little angry with James for going without me at the end of last year, so demanded a trip last night. It had been much anticipated and I’ve waited long enough for the half hour queue to be irrelevant. We were there at prime time, the queue seemed long, but moved quickly. By the time we left (shortly after 9pm) you could have walked straight in.
So… to the food. I am no restaurant critic so bear with me. We started off with Buffalo Wings. I’ve never had wings cooked ‘properly’, but have been intrigued ever since I read an essay by Calvin Trillin on their history and origin in Secret Ingredients (a great book). Trillin tells us that in Buffalo wings are always offered “mild”, “medium” or “hot” – in Meat Liquor they come one way and if I’m brutally honest for me they could have done with just a touch more heat. Having said this, they were the most delicious and tender chicken wings I have ever had, tangy and sweet at the same time and the blue cheese sauce (the idea of which has always scared me) was amazing. Be warned, the portion is huge – ample for two and enough for four.
Next up, The Burger. I went for the classic cheeseburger, James the same but with a slice of bacon added and all accompanied by some Fries (‘not chips’) and a portion of Slaw. They were certainly worth the wait. I don’t really know where to start so I’ll go outside to inside. The bun was almost my favourite part – simple, no frills, a little bit sweet and ready to soak up all the delicious meaty juices. The piccalilli-esque sauce was perfect and was aided by a couple of large slices of gherkins to add a little extra tang. Next onto the main event, the pure meat patty – beautifully charred on the outside and mouth-wateringly rare on the inside. You really can’t ask for more, the three components work so harmoniously that it wants for nothing else.
If you’re in to fine dining this may not be your place; the food comes served on paper- lined trays, the table is decorated with ketchup, french’s mustard, mayonnaise and kitchen paper, the music is loud and the atmosphere vibrant. But most importantly the food is damn good. Go.
Meat Liqour, 74 Welbeck Street, W1. No reservations. Meal for two (without booze) £28 (plus tip)
Oh, and a link to the Calvin Trillin article, here